Siachen Glacier
Back to Nubra valley and Sasoma from where the trail had originated.
Further north is Siachen glacier. This is one of the longest glaciers in
the world and a major climbing ground. It has a long history. Sir Francis
Younghusband, Bullock Workmans and Tom Longstaff were early visitors who
brought back knowledge about its length, location and mountains, Several
peaks on its
western rim, like Saltoro Kangri I, K12, Sia Kangri and others were
climbed by expeditions of different nationalities. In the 1970s several
Japanese expeditions crossed over Bilafond la in the west to this glacier
and made ascents of Teram Kangri I, Apsarasas and Singhi Kangri. These
visits, from Pakistan, prompted the Indian army to take action and in 1984
they stationed themselves on its heights. This was the beginning of the
'Glacier War' which is still on. Before that, some Indian army expeditions
had been climbing on the glacier
repeating ascents of the above peaks, now
approached from the Indian side.
|
Most of the high peaks, including Everest, have now been climbed
over a 100 times. Once the interest in them has waned, ranges such
as those in India, will be the climber's Playground hopefully! |
Climb Allowed
Several teams were allowed to climb on the
glacier and in the side valleys from the Indian side. The first joint
expedition (Indo- British) in the side valley was to the Rimo peaks in
1985. The team led by me and Dave Wilkinson climbed Rimo III and narrowly
missed climbing Rimo I, which was climbed by the Indo-Japanese team the
following year. An Indo- American team climbed Sia Kangri at the head of
the glacier and then for several years no climbers visited the upper
glacier. Saltoro Kangri II at 7705 m remains one of the high unclimbed
peaks in the world today. When things are quieter there, a lot of climbing
can be done in the area.
In 1998 I completed a dream while
traversing the Siachen glacier to stand on the Indira Col at its head. It
was a grand feeling to see the historical mountains and points of
reference to historical aspects. Despite the present hostilities
surrounding the glacier this is the range for the future.
The Indian Himalayan range stands on its
own even though it does not contain high peaks of 8000 m for which leading
mountaineers are queuing elsewhere. Most of the high peaks, including
Everest, have now been climbed over a 100 times. Onee the interest in them
has waned, ranges such as those in India, will be the climber's playground
hopefully!
This is a brief personal outline of the
history of events in the Indian Himalaya. There are many other aspects of
the range apart from mountaineering. For any mountaineer interested in the
range I have one suggestion. Normal Mailer is said to have once chided
President John F. Kennedy after the Bay of Pigs fiasco. He said,
