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by Raju
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Mysticism, Romance and...... P M Das
Between the forests and the snow lies the most poetical of the mountain
regions. There, when climbing upwards you first feel the bundle of earthly
care rolls off your shoulders and that you have finally cleared the
‘slough of despond’. There in the early months, you walk knee-deep in
flowers, every one of which is a bit of embodied poetry.”
About the auther:
Dr P M Das IPS Inspector General of Police,Indian Reserve
Battalions,
Punjab, is a veteran mountaineer.
Courtsy:- Yojana
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I have often wondered what makes the
climber take on the hard challenges of climbing year after year.
Despite the well-meaning words of discouragement of near and dear
ones, as to the danger of it all. The risk of a fall; of being
trapped in an avalanche; of being hit by stone-fall; of an anchor
coming loose on an abseil.
Let me narrate a feeling I had while on a traverse high up on the
slopes of Mukut Parbat. A diagonal traverse below the last
camp was peppered with falling rock and stone which whistled
past you at tremendous speed during the daylight hours. Like
bullets. I found myself on this traverse with a companion at
eleven in the morning, a little behind others in your ascent.
On seeing the rock bombardment, my companion wisely suggested
we turn back, but my spirits egged me on, if only to see if I
had understood their pattern and frequency. I danced and
dodged the missiles and safely completed the traverse but
turned back from completing the load ferry to the higher camp
because it was late in the day and again exposed myself to the
rock bombardment on the descent and rejoined my companions at
the lower camp. Perhaps enjoying the flow of adrenalin in the
process!
Why did I expose myself to this apparently senseless risk on this
climb in the first place? On this traverse what had I
achieved? Nothing tangible; not even a load delivered to the
higher camp for future use. Yet there was this satisfaction
that I had been able to move in harmony with dangerous
elements of nature. Something the rational man would find
difficult to comprehend. Yet it is a common streak in many
climbers. It is this kind of urge which brings the serious
mountaineer to take on high risk climbing, time and again,
irrespective of the toll that these same environs may have
taken on others of their ilk.
Asceticism : Sir Arnold Lunn wrote about mountain mysticism
and the mountaineer ‘in Alpine Mysticism and Cold Philosophy’
: "He have chosen the ascetic way to mountain understanding,
and among the hills, as elsewhere asceticism is the key to the
higher forms of mystical experience. One need not question the
sincerity of Ruskin’s condemnation of those who had
transformed the mountain cathedrals into arenas for athletic
feats, but I have sometimes suspected that the peculiar venom
of his attack may have been due to the fact that the
mountaineer provoked an unformulated doubt of his own life,
which was essentially non-ascetic and soft". The hardships and
privations undertaken by the Buddhist monk or the sadhu,
suffering a cold winter in the heights of the
Himalaya is often for granted. Is it because we have thousands of such
ascetics? Pari passu, asceticism is part of Indian character
and since this quality is a basic requirement of a serious
climber, makes the Indian character temperamentally suited to
take to mountaineering and the ascetic sports. |
Mountain Worship : Few mountaineers distinguish between
worship of mountains and worship inspired by mountains. Do
they perform a worship inspired by mountains? To Sir Arnold
Lunn the latter makes sense but the former appears ridiculous.
The Himalaya are resplendent in mountains named after the
Gods, as in Gaurishankar, Gurudongmar, Swargarohini, Kailash,
Parabati Parbat, Shivling and steeped in religious lore. Not
surprisingly gods, goddesses and deities of the hills are
deeply rooted in the lives of the simple hillfolk of the
Himalaya. Therefore, I have often wondered whether most Indian
mountaineers too, in indentifying themselves with these hill
people, worshipped mountains.
What is definite is that the
Himalaya is so
steeped with religious worshipping, many mountaineers seem to
have succumbed to the cant and ritual of it. The scare of the
unknown and lack of confidence in the climber’s own competence
and ability to work in harmony with the mountain leads him to
clutch at these straws.
In fact mountaineering is perhaps the only sport in which its
devotees to find a substitute for religion. Sir Leslie Stepen
who had been an Anglican priest before he wrote ‘An Agnostic’s
Apology’ was not the only mountaineer in whom mountains evoked
something faintly like the sense of worship evoked by the
religion he ceased to believe. In mountain he found "their
voice is mystic and has found discordant interpreters: but to
me at least it speaks in tones at once more tender and more
awe-inspiring than that of any mortal teacher". Under the
influence of Leslie Stephen, Arnold Lunn rejected Christianity
while at school and explored materialism. He declares that he
became a rationalist but by nineteen he became an agnostic if
not an atheist by belief. Yet has experience of moving
mountain scenery convinced him that "no purely
materialistic theory of evolution (as of Charles Darwin)
offers the slightest clue to the origin of our sense of
beauty".
Philo observes |
‘All
nature is the language in which God expresses his thoughts but the
thoughts are more important than the language’.
‘Thus mountains may be symbols or images of some other reality’
but the worship of images as if they were something more than
images is a form of idolatry in the strict sense of the term’
All those who profess to believe in the religion of the
mountains must be prepared to defend themselves against the
accusation of mountain idolatry. Thus do we believe, the
mountain,
Nanda Devi is a Goddess or the creation of God?
Carrying the argument a step further we may conclude that
expression of mountain beauty must never be colored by
religion. There must be genuine mysticism in response to
mountain beauty for the true mountaineer.
The Presence : How often the mountaineer feels as R.L.G. Irving
wrote ‘with each succeeding year grows an abiding conviction
in the dependence of himself and his surroundings on the
benevolence of some unseen power’. It this the revelation
which appeared before Willi Unsoeld as he set eyes on Nanda
Devi for the first time before his travers of Everest in 1963
that he came back for an ascent many years later along with
his daughter whom he had named after the mountain?
Many climbers at high altitude, under stress have experienced that
presence of a companion in accompaniment while perhaps there
was none. There is no dearth of instances such as those
recorded on the upper slopes of Everest. I recall my own
experience after a disaster following an ascent of Bhargirathi-II
(6150 metres), 18 years ago. On the descent from the summit
one of my companions slipped on the rope and pulled me and
another into a fall which were failed to arrest. The result
was that I found myself having to sit out a night in the open
at 20,000 feet, badly bruised, without an axe, crampons or
clothing and beside one dead companion and another dying.
Shivering and stamping my feet, I shouted out to the rescue
party which failed to reach me.
I prepared to
concentrate on keeping up the spirits of my living friend and
survival. Throughout the night and till I was found by the
rescue party while descending an avalanche chute next morning
I felt the presence of a Being. This presence was around me
and at times I talked to him and it urged me to concentrate on
my survival, which I was doing. It was not a ghost-like
apparition but like a companion. A presence. Eventually, the
Presence disappeared from my sphere of consciousness as I
sighted the rescue party. I am not sure what this phenomenon
was. Was it a hallucination conjured by a weary mind? If
it was, it had a positive effect on me. Or was it more than
that? Perhaps I made connection with another dimension, in an
etheral space by a medium medium called stress. |
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