Eco-tourism & Mountains
Nagadhiraj Himalaya A Review of the Indian
Trekking in Himachal
Mountaineering,Trekking & Adventure
Nagadhiraj Himalaya A Review of the
by Harish Kapadia
auther:- Mr Harish Kapadia is a veteran Mountaineer & writer.This
was one of the earliest Himalyan travel recorded in the Indian
range.This article is based on 40 years of personal mountaineering
experience of the auther in the indian Himalayan. Courtesy:- Yojana
Though a lot has been done in the Indian Himalaya in the last
Millennium, a lot remains to be done. After all what is a
100 years for the Nagadhiraj Himalaya, standing there for centuries.
We must Pledge to know
more about the range and protect it.
In the northern direction there is a noble souled mountain called the
Himalaya He is Nagadhiraj, the Lord of all mountains, with his two
extending arms fathoming the eastern and western oceans He stands
unsurpassed as the measuring rod of the earth
Kalidas in Kumarsambhava
Sangla Valley Image
promoting Himachal in the CyberWorld.
Kindly visit Our
:- If I am asked to name one Indian peak which I like the most-I would say
Nanda Devi. I have seen it from, almost all directions and at close
quarters. ln fact it is the centre-piece of the Indian Himalaya. The
exploration of routes to its base by Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman in 1934,
its ascent in 1936, and all other subsequent expeditions are part of
mountaineering history. They left a permanent mark on the history. To its
east lies the Milam glacier. The Poles who climbed in this valley in 1939,
made the first ascent of Nanda Devi East but two of them were
unfortunately killed later whilst climbing Tirsuli peak.
Further east in Kumaon stands the 'Mountain of Long life' Chiring
We, on the Kalabaland glacier. My team from Bombay made the first ascent
of Chiring in 1979 and it has not been climbed since. There are
several peaks on the Kalabaland glacier which are attractive. A special
mention must be made of unclimbed Suitilla, which could be called the 'Changabang
To the west of Nanda Devi, on the outer rim of the Sanctuary stand the
Bethartoli Himal peaks. In 1970, I climbed the South peak but we lost four
climbers on the main peak in an avalanche. One of them was Ang Rami, a
charming personality from Darjeeling. Bill Murray had tried this main peak
first, in 1950. Finally it was climbed by the Italians after our attempt.
Nearby stands Trisul, the 'Longstaff Mountain'. In 1907 Longstaff had
climbed it speedily and it remained a 'height record' for a long time. To
my mind, it was when Gurdial Singh climbed Trisul in 1951, that the
beginning was made of the age of mountaineering for the Indians.
The inner Sanctuary was closed to expeditions for some time. The first
expedition entered the abode in 1974. Chris Bonington and his Indo-British
team climbed Changabang, the northernmost peak of the inner Sanctuary. It
was an extraordinary achievement by any standards. The southernmost peak
of the inner Sanctuary, Devtoli was climbed by my team within a few days
of the above climb. Whilst returning from the summit, I fell in a crevasse
and was carried on a makeshift stretcher or piggyback, for 13 days, to be
rescued by a helicopter. As I wrote then-looking at the peak from air- 'Devtoli,
the honours are even' !
In 1992 the honours went to two brave Indian Air force helicopter pilots
as they rescued injured Stephen Venables from higher slopes of Panch
Chilli V. With snow slopes inches away from the helicopter rotors they
landed on ski of the chopper and lifted Venables to safety. This
Indian-British team had climbed Panch Chilli II and made first ascent of
Peak V when the tragedy had struck Venables. A loose piton made him tumble
hundreds of feet injuring knee and ankle, till the spirited historic
rescue saved his life.