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Location:-
Sujanpur Tira is only 25 km from Hamirpur town and 120 km from
Dharamsala .
The district of
Hamirpur having inherited its name from a descendent of a great
Katoch lineage Raja Hamir Chand, has relatively been explored
little by tourists though it houses some of the finest jewels
connected with the rich legacy of the region. The lanes, temples,
forts and palaces of Naduan and Sujanpur Tira still echo with
stories about Maharaja Sansar Chand Katoch, one of the greatest
Katoch rulers, who had sought refuge at these places while
fighting his adversaries. |
In 1758, overlooking the settlement of Sujanpur, Abhaya Chand, a
Katoch ruler, built a fortified palace atop a hill. It acquired the
name Tira and with time this ancient town on the bank of river Beas
began to be called Sujanpur- Tira. Raja Sansar Chand Katoch converted
Sujanpur- Tira into his third capital. Being a great patron of art and
culture, soon many famous artists flocked to his court. Till his death
in 1824, Sujanpur- Tira and nearby Alampur were homes for the Katoch
ruler where he indulged with arts and artists and has gone down in
history as a true parton. There is the Barahdari hall within the fort
of Sujanpur- Tira, which had twelve chambers for other rajas. Here,
Sansar Chand Katoch used to hold his court.
On a nearby hill at Tira is a temple
dedicated to Chamunda Devi that still attracts a large number of
devotees. At the southern end is the temple of Gauri Shanker that
houses life-size statues in 'ashtadhatu' of Lord Shiva and his consort
Parvati. Every 'Holi', colours were added to the waters of a huge tank
within the fort, which used to be celebrated with enthusiasm. The
festival is still popular in the region.
The
devastating earthquake of 1905 in Kangra region had left a broken
piece of history in the remnants of this fort and its great palace at
Sujanpur- Tira. Some of the temples of Sujanpur may have been built
over again but the Narbadeshwar temple survived the seismic shocks.
The walls of this temple have given refuge to some of the finest
frescoes of the famous Pahari School of painting. Archaeological
Survey of India is helping to conserve its rich treasure. This temple
was got built by Prasanni Devi, the Maharani of Sansar Chand Katoch in
1802 AD and is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Built in an open yard 'Panchayatan
style', the darbar artists have put their heart and soul to paint
those exquisite frescoes on its walls and the ceiling leaving not an
inch unadorned. Scenes from the great Indian epics Ramayana and
Mahabharata are depicted in the frescoes.
In one corner of the 'chowgan' ground,
there is the Murli Manohar temple built by the Katoch ruler in memory
of his mother in 1785 AD. The temple in 'Shir Shaili' style is
dedicated to Lord Krishna. Here the wall frescoes have Krishna, Radha
and Gopis as their motifs. Narmades'vara Temple Rulers for training
their soldiers used the 'chowgan'. However, the big ground these days
is used for holding cultural, social and political functions. Only 10
km from the temple town of
Jwalamukhi and 28 km from Hamirpur on
the left bank of river Beas is Nadaun. This town came into prominence
when the
Kangra rulers shifted their capital
here after they lost Kangra fort to invading armies.
The scenic beauty of Nadaun in the vicinity is legendary with a saying
recording it as 'he who goes to Nadaun, why should he return?' Ruins
of the old palace here tell tales of the better days it has seen.
Kangra miniature paintings are still Housed at Amtar palace. In this
land dominated by temples of Devi's, at Naduan there is one dedicated
to Lord Shiva. The turbulence of the Beas having calmed near Nadaun
provides excellent river rafting sites. And with the king of fishes
'the Mahaseer' among its waters excites all anglers. It was in these
surroundings the luster faded Katoch Royalty after having ruled Kangra
for about 2000 years spent its last days before the British took
control. Trapped between the Sikh armies of Maharaja Ranjit Singh on
one side and Gurkhas armies under Amar Singh Thapa on the other. The
great Katoch Empire had shrunk to Nadaun and Sujanpur- Tira.
Fort of Sujanpur- Tira
Raja Sansar Chand Katoch, unable to recover the famed
Kangra fort, may have died a broken man but even in faded
glory he had kept alive the famous school of Pahari
paintings and is still remembered as its greatest patron. Many of
these miniature paintings representative of oriental character adorn
the galleries of museums world over and have an emotive quality that
appeal even today. The broken forts of Sujanpur- Tira and Nadaun and
the shine of the frescoes on the walls of its temples and palaces with
time may dimmed a little, the townships may have lost their importance
but these places wait their turn to be discovered again.
By Sushma All
Images by P r Bali (moocdc01)
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